That is what I have been doing whenever I get a chance to work on a route that I bolted a few weeks back in Unaweep. I am enjoying the process of crimping and lie backing and gastoning my way up the slightly overhanging route. As I link through the opening sequences and shake at the third bolt, I feel drained. After a quick shake I push into the next powerful and balancy sequence that forces a barn door move with tiny feet. After climbing to the stone on tiny side pulls, I move into the stem and STAB at poor under cling above. At that point I am exhausted from the stress of the moves below and significantly powered down. The next moves are total compression to something that I fear will never feel like a shake. Making the next clip begins a new strange and balancy sequence that requires me to crimp the tiniest if tinnies and lunge sideways for a hold. Compression and faith keep me on the rock. Soon I am resting on a sloper foot and another side pull. A crimp traverse and a powerful clip takes me to the final sequence. Lie backing under cling side pulls I gain the stance at the last move. Slopey slippery feet test my mettle as reach for a side pull that always feels too small. Hand jams and fists take me to the anchors and the fatigue sets in.
Oh to try it again and attempt to get a little bit higher before succumbing to the lack of power and finger strength.
The Unaweeper, as I am calling it will be a nice route to complete as I have learned to appreciate falling in that dark corridor one pitch off the deck that is lies hidden within.
Last moves to get to the jamming
Shaking out after the entry moves of the climb
Sticking the nasty little undercling.
ALL PHOTOS BY JESSE ZACHER
Get outside and have some fun.
piz : )