Attempting a New Route

This past weekend I planned on doing a new multipitch climb on a 800ft tall piece of stone.
The goal was to open up a new route that was in the 5.9 range, so that many people would be able to climb this feature.
Chris and I started around 9:30 am and were on our way climbing on unclimbed stone when the property owner yelled up at us and asked us to come on down.
You see the guide book had made a note that the landowner did not mind if people climbed on his property and had it been the same property owner as when the book was written all would have been well. BUT, 7 years ago someone else bought the land and choose to not allow climbers on it.
So we chatted with him a bit and apologized and told him that we would make sure to spread the word that he didn’t want climbers on the rock.
We ended up getting two pitches off the deck (about a third of the way to the top) and had to come down.
It was interesting because we encountered some of the chossiest rock that we had ever seen and some of the hardest rock that we had ever drilled into for anchors. It would have been a nice route with plenty of adventure on it, but that will have to wait until another person buys the land. Until then, there is a ton of rock to play on and that is what we will do!
Enjoy the photos or our short day.

Since there was plenty of daylight left we climbed Chris’s new route up Sunday Wall, called The Steeple 5.12- and enjoy the great rock and exposure of the route!

 The Thimble in Unaweep Canyon. No climbing on this one, it is on private property.

 Chris starting on the first pitch.

 You can see the shadow that the wall made over Chris’ truck down below.

 Lot’s of untouched granite to choose your own adventure on.

 Huge quartz crystals!

 My anchor in a zone of bad rock.

 The view from our new route and Chris getting ready to place an anchor bolt in the hardest stone that we have ever drilled through! We went down after that cause the landowner came out and requested us not to climb on the wall. According to the guide book, the owner said it was ok but we didn’t know that the ownership changed and the new owner does not want climbers on his land. It worked out but we were bummed.

 So we switched gears and headed up Chris’ new climb the Steeple on Sunday Wall. A great 5.12- minus that is a mixed bolts and gear route! It was amazing!

 The double crack slapping crux!

 Enjoying the wind and shade in the afternoon.

 Chris coming up pitch two.

 Chris firing his crux.

 Doing the last pitch next to the mega project. The splitters to the right are the ones that I originally wanted to climb when I established my own route last year to the right of this one. I rapped and looked over the moves and knew that is was barely possible if possible at all. Chris came to the same conclusion, it might go but it will be 5.14 for sure! I didn’t want to work a pitch that long so I passed. But now that I looked at it again, maybe, just maybe I will be back!

Chris coming up the final pitch to the nice ledge belay.
Get outside and have an adventure and if it goes wrong make the best of the day!
piz : )

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