Training wth Piz: Medium Crimp Typewriters

The Typewriter is a great exercise to increase your power endurance and grip strength.
It works, your hands, back, forearms, hand and finger strength (depending on what you hold) and your over all pulling power.

As you can see in the video, I am failing badly due to it being placed later in my training program.

I suggest that you always begin new exercises on the best holds possible and over time and mastery of the movement should you switch to smaller holds.

With great practice of this you could add a weight belt to increase the challenge.


  1. Pull up on your bar or fingerboard with a wide grip.
  2. Lock off at a 90 degree angle with your arms
  3. Hold the lock off position and move all the way to the right and back all the way to the left until your chin is over each hand.
  4. Repeat this process for a time period and repeat 2-3 reps. (15- 30 seconds depending on the climbers experience)

As with any of these movements that I have posted, over doing any one of them will lead to possible injuries. It is likely that if you try to do them all with out rest that you will have finger and elbow problems.

One more thing to note is that I do not provide a specific training program for any of these movements. It is up to you to identify what you are weak at and then to choose the appropriate exercises that will develop that specific area.

As long as you are systematic about what you do and how train, you will see increases in performance. It is the “training” where you just go to the gym and do a little of this and that that are truly unproductive an a waste of time.

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

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