Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )
Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme
Here is the the first part of my new route.
The first pitch (yes, there are two with a short traverse in between them). It was a little bit dirty and really soft at the bottom, but it cleaned up after the initial attempt. You could say that the belayer needed a helmet on and had to be ready to run from exploding and falling rock! It takes gear to 3 inches and has hand jams with a few finger locks. Nothing spectacular, but it gets you to the money pitch. you rap off a tree and it goes at 5.9.
Pitch 2 is the money. It starts with tips and sporty climbing that will have you falling below your belayer at about 8ft off the deck. Fortunately there is open space to fall into. The first moves are a bit committing and the gear feels sketchy (one .3 cam) but can be done without worry’s. Then it changes into .4, .5, .75, 1 inch finger locking and lie backing. When you get to the roof, it quickly goes from 2 inch gear to baggy 3’s. After that it is a easy tromp up the head wall and into the off width.
I really wanted this roof section to be .75’s cause they are really hard for me but, it was nice to have cruiser big hands to deal with rather than a 13+ crux of impossible .75 inch jamming.
Thanks to Ben and Mayan for the help and willingness to entertain my new routing fever!
Heading back at 6am for some sending and photos with Jeremiah and Mayan!