Training with Piz: Analyzing Technique, Chris Sharma Style

Get outside and have an adventure!

piz : )

Thanks to my amazing sponsors: Arcteryx, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Sterling Ropes, the AAC and WIndX-treme

Check out the video with all the commentary and enjoy the beauty of the area.
THEN
Look at how a climber of nearly 20 years gets it done and watch for technique!

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/chris-sharma-down-under

Here are a few of the things that I learned while watching Chris Sharma climb.

  • He immediately places a foot on the wall after making reaches to take weight off his hands
  • He always finds that “plumb” position on his arms in order to rest effectively
  • He uses momentum to generate speed to make long moves dynamic rather than powerful
  • He constantly looks down at his feet, so that he is taking weight off his arms and hands
  • He initally grabs small holds with an open hand and will switch to crimp postion when he needs to pull.
  • On vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, the high foot and lock off and  rocker on your foot are essential skills
  • While bouldering, watch to see how strong his calves are, they are always engaged
  • Being flexible is advantageous but not too flexible or you will loose power

Do your best to check your own technique and see whether or not you are being as efficient as you can be. Also watch the other expereinced and talented climbers that are at the crag or gym and try to emulate how they do things. It is not always that they are way “stronger” than you, but it might be that they are just using proper technique!!

Have fun out there!

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