Planning to Send this Fall? How will you do that?

This is the time to be getting ready and tuning up for your fall redpoint season.
How are you going to do that? Are you going to try the same old way as you have every other year or are you going to attempt to use a systematic approach that addresses your weaknesses?

Here are some suggestions to get ready! (they are in no particular order)





  1. Pick an objective. That can be a climb or boulder problem, short or long, steep or vertical. If you don’t have something to train for it is difficult to assess your weakness and then train with intent.
  2. Be realistic but aim high. Don’t just pick something that you are already close to accomplishing, choose something that is out of your comfort zone. By addressing all those areas that are difficult for you, you will become a better climber.
  3. Assess how much time that you have to give to the training. You need to meet your lifes obligations so plan your training accordingly.
  4. Identify training days and fun days (at the crag or gym). You can’t make every single day a training day, you have to build in the fun and vice versa, you can’t expect to progress if you just go and screw off all day in an undirected manner.
  5. Find a training partner with a similar schedule or training plan. That way you have someone to psyche you up if you are slacking on a day or two. A partner allows you to climb routes too!
  6. Build in rest time! Without rest you don’t recover.
  7. Plan Plan Plan and then follow through! That means don’t spend your time climbing slab if you want to get better at overhangs! Choose your climbs and boulders to meet your needs. That might take you out of your routine but that is good, you need to step out to step up.
  8. Get a trainer or a training book. There are many out there that are very good at helping people progress. We are never too good to improve! Be open to constructive criticism. Even Ondra needs a coach!
  9. Make it fun! If you aren’t smiling at the end of the day, then your taking it to serious. It’s climbing folks, we are not saving the world or solving world problems. : )

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