Lately, I have spent more time training than climbing on real rocks. Sometimes when that happens I get down and sometimes I am in the middle of a training cycle and am just waiting to pounce on my current goal. Right now I happen to be getting close to the end of a training cycle and I am ready to pounce!
My current goal (which I began last fall) is actually the climb on the front page of my blog. I am calling it Milk is for Babies and I am attempting to get the first free ascent. The name comes from my buddy Justin who was talking about Arnold Schwarzenegger and one of his early films Pumping Iron 1977. The line comes from the film and as Justin was imitating Arnold from the movie, I began to laugh uncontrollably. That was all it took to name it when I first began working on the route.
Anyway, as this route is particularly challenging to me I have had to design a specific training plan in order to develop my weaknesses. I began with a power phase where I worked on increasing my short and quick bursts of explosive movements. That lasted about 5 weeks. After a short rest, (1 week) I moved into a strength phase where I am doing many exercises related to adding weight to my body as I perform climbing movements. Success on this route will come from contact strength (since movements are dynamic), power (since moves are dynamic) core strength (since the route is on a 45 degree overhanging wall), finger strength (since it is a finger crack) and lock off strength.
The route is really about 12-15 moves and is like a long and high boulder problem. I will let a boulderer climb it without a rope after I complete it. For me it’s a roped route that is for sure! I can’t even work the upper moves without being on lead because the low moves are so challenging for me. If I were to work it as a boulderer I would rarely get to try the upper moves cause the start is very low percentage for me. I am hoping that the additional power will create a higher percentage for my success rate. When that happens, I will be confident in linking the route in one go!
I will let you know how it goes : )
Get outside and have an adventure!