Last Update for a Spell

I am heading back onto a Zion big wall to attempt to get to the top. The method? Be positive along with using free and aid techniques. Also, bring a partner that will enjoy the process, being off the deck, the sand and loose rock, the unknown and hard work. This time I will be with a good friend who I can honestly say that I climbed my very first route that was considered a big wall with. D-Ron is my nick name for him and I am looking forward to getting to literally hang around with him for a few days. The biggest challenge is that we will be on a north face in the Court of the Patriarchs. The height of the wall is supposed to be around 2000 feet which will make the free climb a big undertaking. But as anyone who knows what it takes to establish a new route, free climbing will be little effort when compared to the weeks that it will take to establish.

The plan is to ascend to my previous high point with:

  1. 3 sets of cams to size 6inch
  2. 1 set of stoppers
  3. 3 wire brushes
  4. about 15 draws and runners
  5. small haul bag
  6. hand drilling set up and 15 bolts/hangers
  7. one water bottle
  8. a couple of bars and peanut butter sandwiches
  9. 1 70meter lead line
  10. 1 70 meter thin static haul line
  11. 1200 feet of static line
  12. synthetic jacket, winter hat, belay gloves, thermal pants, lined pants, neck gaiter and warm socks
  13. 2 belay devices
  14. one point and shoot camera
  15. one badass partner

I am not looking forward to:

  1. 20-30 degree temps and being in the shade all day long.
  2. potential loose rock
  3. potential dead ends
  4. hand drilling 1/2 inch bolts for anchors
  5. core shots in my static ropes
  6. jugging 100’s of feet of rope
  7. hiking on loose sand
  8. waking up early while on vacation

I am looking forward to:

  1. the unknown
  2. getting scared
  3. moving up the wall one inch at a time
  4. creating something for everyone
  5. the view
  6. the wall conversations
  7. the solitude of the approach
  8. the wildlife (deer and turkeys)
  9. the virgin river
  10. climbing it rather than cleaning it!
  11. carrying a small rack!

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