Lots of people ask what I carry when I am establishing a new route. Well here are the dirty details. I have the most amazing sponsors out there in the outdoor industry but none of them have every piece that makes my life simple, so here are the only places where I use some other brands.
- A tough harness with a haul loop. I like the Arcteryx AR-395A (the numbers signify the weight of the harness in grams) I am always carrying too many things and clipping into everything on the way down or up. I want a comfy harness that will last and do the job. This is it.
- GriGri. Here are the pro’s that top the list: passing knots/short fixes hands free. (adding an auto block or prussic on 20 rappels is just time consuming, I would like to get down this year), long belays with a GriGri allow me not white knuckle the rope the entire time, simul rappelling with ATC’s in hazardous areas is just a bad idea.
- Metolius Easy Aider is by far the best and longest lasting. Don’t ever jug without your feet fixed into your aider.
- The Petzl Ascension. hands down the most friendly and easy to use ascender on the market.
- Black Diamond Yosemite Hammer. They last forever and are weighted properly for hand drilling or bashing loose and dangerous rock.
- Peztl RocPec is the best hand drill on the market today. I am still waiting for my buddy to release his design which will totally advance hand drilling speeds in the future.
- Locking Carbiners CAMP Orbit 2Lock. These are small and easy to use and are on my ascenders, belay device and daisys
- The Daisy Twist from CAMP. Super durable, super safe.
- A blow tube from the hardware store
- An adjustable wrench from the hardware store. Everyone bolts with different gear and you need to be able to tighten or loosen a bolt and shouldn’t ever be stuck with the wrong size socket.
- Axion Belay Gloves. When you new route, you tear your hands up. Wear good gloves.
- Eye protection is key. Julbo sunglasses rock and stop them from getting in your eyes too!
- The Creek 20 haul bag from Black Diamond. Small enough to carry everything stated above and the drill and bolts and hangers.
- The hardware depends on the rock type and the location. Use what is appropriate based on your area.
- The Speed helmet by CAMP. Light and fashionable, just like me : )
- The Zen by SCARPA its a tough leather shoe that handles the destruction that jugging and new routing inflict on a shoe.
- A small prybar from the hardware store. Unless you are on perfect stone, you need one of these.
- Hilti TE-4-A18 This is NOT a 36 volt hammer drill because you don’t need that big and heavy of a drill anymore. Get with the times and save your elbows. For areas that allow power drilling, this is the one for you!!!! Also, I have found that the Hilti drill bits are better than all the rest. You will wear our a Home Depot bit really quickly unless you buy the good stuff.
- Sterling Static ropes HTP Static lines 9mm. You already have a ton in your pack, keep the rope light and safe and durable.
Now that you know the secrets, get out there and have an adventure.
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