Back to the bolts

I was lucky enough to get a belay on a route that I bolted last year that I never had time to complete. I put in a couple days on it and then the snow and cold temperatures came and that was that. Now that I am back in town for the school year, I can get back to business on the line. I was able to mostly clean the route and work some moves last year, but today I hung on that wall for about three and a half hours. It felt great to loose skin, fall, retry sequences, find small successes, and bleed on the route. I managed to figure out 200ft of movement on otherwise impossible terrain and it felt good.

Climbing is not about the names or the grades (oh, how at times they can be fun and motivating), but climbing is about being on a wall, feeling the wind blow, enjoying the view, trusting your partner and finding focus. Focus will drive me to effectively use my time over the next few months and complete the preparation that I need to finish this challenge.

I will:

  • train for the challenges of the route
  • rehearse the moves over and over in my mind
  • wear the proper footwear
  • maintain a positive attitude
  • pay attention to growth no matter how small
  • utilize the tools that I have (climbing gym, fingerboards, Treadwall)
  • rest appropriately
  • not put the route before my family
  • enjoy the challenge

I need to have incredible sloper skills, footwork, core strength and endurance.

I will use the slopers on fingerboards to improve my sloper threshold.

I will work my footwork by hanging at 45 degrees and placing my feet on terrible feet in unlikely positions.

I will work movements from extended positions.

I will develop the needed skin to manages the tiny granite holds and crimps of the route.

Lots to do.


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