How Should You Feel after the First Week of a Program?

As I have just completed my first week of my latest program, I thought it would be good to share what (at least) I feel as the days go on. I will summarize how things went last week.

Saturday I was able to get on my project. It took nearly 4 hours of work to learn and rehearse the moves on the bouldery and sustained two pitch granite climb that I bolted and cleaned last year. I was destroyed. My skin was very thin and I actually bled through one of my finger tips after attempting to hold the desperately slopey side pulls over and over and over. I was powered down to the point where stacking the fixed line and lead line after completing my top rope burn was difficult.

Sunday I did a fingerboard session and I had to take it easy due to not having any skin. The reason for not having any was due to my prior three weeks off of climbing and mostly swimming in a pool. My fingerboard session was very specific. I would hang for 10 seconds on an open handed sloper, then pull into a 5 second 90 degree lock off and then close with the 10 second straight arm hang. I rested for 10 seconds and then repeated this a total of 5 times in a row. Then I did that for three sets with a 2 minute break in between. After a 5 minute rest I did a crimp dead hang for 5 seconds on to 5 second of 90 degree lock off and back to another 5 seconds of dead hang. I repeated this in the same fashion as the sloper set. Needless to say my skin tore apart on the crimps and I couldn’t finish. I was destroyed to say the least.


Monday was some cardio and that was easy. 20 minutes of running.

Tuesday was my Combo Circuit which involves strength and core work mixed with fingerboarding, campusing and weights. Let’s just say that I did poorly. Then I did my gym routes and stayed in the 5.11 range and I felt tired but was able to push through. My skin was the X factor and I needed to make sure that I wasn’t setting myself back by the types of grips that I was holding. Over all I was feeling very fatigued throughout the work day and falling asleep early at night.

By wed my skin was needed a full rest and that was what I did. I ate and drank a bunch and tried my best to recover.

Thursday I repeated another Combo Circuit (which I did poorly on). I had no power and no endurance and my skin hurt. In the afternoon I did a short Treadwall session (just a 4×4 with easy routes and my skin hurt a ton but it wasn’t tearing up. I was not going into Fridays rest feeing good. Skin was beat, I had no power and no endurance.

Friday was a rest day.

Saturday I went up on my project and had an amazing session. My skin felt great on the granite slopers, I felt strong and was able to do the cruxes over and over and I nearly sent the second pitch on top rope. It lies in the mid 5.13 range and I am optimistic that I will be able to send that pitch shortly. Then I was able to climb another 10 routes including 6 5.12’s without blowing through my skin. I was deflated and tired at the end of the week but the well laid out rest days allow me to get it back after such a beating.

I am now optimistic that the route can be sent this fall (before winter sets in its on the north face at 7000+ft) and that my training is right on track. I think its time for a little ice cream.

Get outside and have an adventure and love it!

By the way I was able to actually make it through my finger boarding session tonight! Not easily but my skin held up and I was able to fight to complete every hang combo.


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