For years after sending a route that I gave my all for days or weeks or even years my celebratory act was to go out and get a bite to eat at what was the locations best grub. For a while it was the burger joint in Rifle (which is long since gone), then it was another burger joint in Glenwood Springs (which is still there/sorry that I can’t remember the name), then it was the Brew Pub in Glenwood (you are probably thinking that I sent no climbs outside of Rifle, ha ha early on I was focused on my sport climbing progression). Then in Zion it became Café Rio and it has basically remained The Rio for quite some time. Anyway, The point of this short write up is that I have recently read that some of the best running athletes do their most challenging workouts after their BIG competition and BEST performances. The reason behind this is that the training is often more difficult than the actual competition. So when they complete their best run (it was often always easier than a normal workout, they get after it with a planned training regime.
So this leads me to wonder, What should you do the day you send? Revel in your awesomeness and pat yourself on your back because you changed the world with your send of the next greatest route that you ever climbed? Or get out there and push yourself (whether you are in the gym or on the road with focused, determined and calculated efforts.
This weekend I completed one half of my current project (the “easy half”). It took three tries which means that it might and I mean might be around 5.13 (on the light side of 13 I insist) but ultimately it doesn’t matter. What matters is that after that send, I climbed as many pumpy and powerful 5.12’s that I could in order to push my threshold for resistance since that is what I need on the “hard” pitch of my project. I for sure will be looking to use all of my time effectively since I do not have the luxury of not having a job and being able to project out on a route every waking second. My one burn a week is all that I get and those moments on route making small progress are always more fun than the final send of the route because at that point the journey has ended.