I think that I have lost my interest in repeating routes (unless its for identifying my fitness level). That being said a good route that is a good time every time is worth repeating. As someone who is constantly seeking something undone, unique and fun, new routing is where I find my greatest satisfaction.
As usual I found something that looked amazing and then after trying it one afternoon (and liking the uniqueness of the route/it’s actually pretty sick) the key grip ripped off in my right hand and I decided that the increase in difficulty that the missing hold brought on was not worth the time of someone with a full time job and a family. Leave it to those folks living in their cars/trucks/vans and who can dedicate vast energy and amounts of time to a few feet of stone.
Anyway, just down the wall I cleaned yet another line that will surely become a classic for those who like doing the abnormal. A 35 meter pitch of slightly overhanging to just vertical fingers and smaller yielded some of the most engaging climbing that I have done in a long time.
I don’t think that this line was established earlier due to the fact there were some huge loose blocks in the roof section near the bottom. But literally 30 minutes worth of rapping in and cleaning took care of that. Add a two bolt anchor and you are all done! Escalante has a ton a new routes to continue to be added, it is just a matter of doing them right. That means clean, safe and well equipped routes.