After three hard days establishing my new 1200 foot line I have been able to complete, equipping, cleaning and path finding the route.
Day 1 – Curtis and I managed to fix lines from the top of the wall during a 8 hour rain storm after climbing a mountaineers route to the top.
Day – 2 Jason and I managed to clean and bolt the anchors in a blizzard after post holing up a steep gully. Also, the fixed lines were moved at the start to follow a cleaner and more fun 300 foot section.
Day -3 Matt and I managed to move the ropes, clean and bolt the bottom third of the route in an icy cold wind.
Day – 4 I hope to climb and wire brush any sections of the route that are dirty with lichen and work all the moves or free all the pitches.
I will be honest, when I work on establishing new routes, I normally don’t work n foul weather. Not because I don’t want to but because sandstone is scary and unsafe in the rain. This new line is on granite which allows me and my partners to get up on the wall safely (all things considered).
Ultimately, it comes down to answering the question of how can I use all of my time that I am not at work efficiently when I want to include my family, friends, duties and passion. At this point, working on routes in crappy conditions is the way.