I finally got back on my route! I bolted this thing in Unaweep 2 years ago that I believe is the most striking line in the canyon. I finally began working it last summer and into the fall once a week for one two to attempts. By the time that I was one hanging it, the temperatures cooled to become unclimbable, so I had to wait until now (nearly 6 months later) to begin the journey once again.
So here is what I learned on my first 2 try’s this year:
- The route is still challenging, but oh so fun.
- My finger tips only have two attempts on the route before they begin to wear off.
- I gained power over the winter with my training plans (2 of them).
- My right arm is the key the completing the route (it needs to be very powerful).
- Core strength is the the other key to completing the route.
- I need to believe in my footwork, otherwise I try to pull too much, power down and fall.
- I can now cruise the upper redpoint crux even when pumped out of my mind.
- The low crux feels easier this year, but it still low percentage for me.
- I will send it this season!
Here is what I need to do to send it this season: (Photo: Mike B is on the second pitch joining me at the belay)
- Be consistent (I need to be on this route once a week to keep the confidence up with my footwork and my memory engaged with the sequences.
- Wear the best edging shoes that I have and trust them.
- I need to be very warmed up when I try the route.