Back on the Project: The Infinity Round

I finally got back on my route! I bolted this thing in Unaweep 2 years ago that I believe is the most striking line in the canyon. I finally began working it last summer and into the fall once a week for one two to attempts. By the time that I was one hanging it, the temperatures cooled to become unclimbable, so I had to wait until now (nearly 6 months later) to begin the journey once again.

So here is what I learned on my first 2 try’s this year:

  1. The route is still challenging, but oh so fun.
  2. My finger tips only have two attempts on the route before they begin to wear off.
  3. I gained power over the winter with my training plans (2 of them).
  4. My right arm is the key the completing the route (it needs to be very powerful).
  5. Core strength is the the other key to completing the route.
  6. I need to believe in my footwork, otherwise I try to pull too much, power down and fall.
  7. I can now cruise the upper redpoint crux even when pumped out of my mind.
  8. The low crux feels easier this year, but it still low percentage for me.
  9. I will send it this season!

Here is what I need to do to send it this season: (Photo: Mike B is on the second pitch joining me at the belay)

  1. Be consistent (I need to be on this route once a week to keep the confidence up with my footwork and my memory engaged with the sequences.
  2. Wear the best edging shoes that I have and trust them.
  3. I need to be very warmed up when I try the route.
  4. Mike B

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