I feel lame sharing with you my week to week progress with my couple season project that I bolted a few years back. What initially seemed over my head now is within grasp. Even though the temperatures a still lingering in the 90’s here in town (which means that at best they are in the upper 70’s in Unaweep) I have been making steady progress on getting ready to red point the climb that I call the Infinity Round.
After 5 weeks of training (which now compromises of 2 three a days a week) I am feeling the flow, the fitness, the power and the moves. Today was my breakthrough day. I was on the route after flailing during my warm ups and feeling like it was too hot throughout the morning. I rapped down the 200 ft wall and felt a cool breeze that didn’t exist at the top of the wall. I decided to try the route with a different pair of shoes (the SCARPA Instinct instead of the SCARPA VAPOR V) after slipping a time or two because of the shoe change I felt the rubber stick as it was supposed to and my body finally begin to fall into the proper positions every time through the hardest moves. I eventually went through the crux to the anchors will little effort and was happy with the progress. The climbing up to the crux is not too difficult and should not be an issue when I attempt the climb next week. I am psyched.
I wish to have completed the climb earlier in order for me to move on to other routes that I have established but getting only one chance a week and only one attempt on that day has made me relearn patience. Throwing yourself at a route every day or every other day is a luxury that the folks living in their car have that I (and most every other climber on the planet doesn’t) don’t. One burn, be patient and make the changes during the week so that the next burn shows progress.
Siege mode as some call it, (when you throw yourself at the route and climb it into submission in my opinion is pretty lame) Give yourself enough tries and of course you will climb it without falling. Sheer numbers will always win out. I enjoy fewer tries to 50 tries. There are just too many other climbs to go and climb on!
So, moral of the story as I ramble on a bit here: go out and have fun climbing and make it efficient and be patient as you are on your journey. Be sure to give lots of your time to helping others instead of hanging on a wall, sitting in a cave or chilling under a boulder.
Below: Ronnie Rose photo at City of Rocks, Idaho