I had been wanting to new route in the North Fork of the Taylor in Kolob Canyon for years. I recently noticed that the locals were establishing incredible lines on the perfect stone and knew that I blew my shot at the plums. So as it goes, I began to look for the more unique and adventurous possibilities. This spring I established Juj Monster (a route named for my best friends wife’s sister who passed away way too soon in her life) and this fall I established Over Two Soon which is ironically about death again. I don’t know if the wall has a name, but I could see it being called the Memorial Amphitheater or something like that. Anyway, I was drawn to the wall by the lure of giant huecos. As it turns out the whole wall is covered with them. I have a few more lines that I would like to establish now that the approach is dialed and relatively quick (the first time it took me 8 hours to get to the base). Now I can do it in under 2 hours.
So what should you expect on this bolted sport climb?
- Just cause the bolts are there it doesn’t mean that you will see them (the first pitch is obvious, don’t worry about finding the route). Sometimes the best rock was in the back of the hueco or on the bottom or side. You get the picture.
- The route is next to a giant waterfall. That means that sand and dirt may accumulate on the holds. I brushed with a snow scraper brush to clean things off.
- Loose rock. I hammered the big and obviously scary stuff off the wall, but more may fall. Pay attention when you climb the route, it is Zion after all. Helmets are a must!
- I left a draw on pitch 4, this is so you can clip it and lower down to reach the anchor. The pitch is overhung and you will dangle in space if you don’t clip into bolts on the pitch. Please leave it there so others can clip in.
- Full 35 meter rappels. Make sure you line up the rope ends exactly, otherwise you will have to adjust them just above the cave anchor belay.
The route topo is below and the route is in between the waterfall and the white spots on the far right of the image in the photo below. The route gets morning shade and plenty of wind so dress for success. Also we saw a rattle snake up near the base. Be aware.