Having just come off a high volume climbing trip in Europe and Canada I am now entering the low volume or sometimes called NO volume climbing time at home.
It’s my priority to not disappear from my family into the mountains now that I am back. I have made some short 2-4 hour sessions of new routing in the canyon since returning, but that is always while everyone else is busy and usually at 6am.
I am however beginning my training cycle for the fall.
- Tuesdays: core/circuit training followed by finger and hand strength training, followed by leading routes at the gym
- Thursdays: core/circuit training followed by explosive power/campusing and climbing movement followed by Treadwall session
- Saturday or Sunday try to climb outside depending on the weather and family obligations, climbing will be on new routes and one burn a week on my project
This cycle will continue for 5-6 weeks and I will bump up the intensity slowly, so as not to get injured. Those other days I will rest and do some light running to maintain cardio fitness.
So what should you do? Plan on getting fit for something (not just anything). My project is 190 ft tall, full of tiny crimps followed by powerful lock-offs. That is why my program looks the way that it does. I address all my needs in a simple and direct plan.