Juj Monster Beta: Kolob Canyon

Something that I established this spring with Mike B. For adventure climbing out roofs with a few bolts here and there where the crack disappears. Good times and wild exposure with comfortable ledge belays.

This route was named for a friend who passed too early. It was her nickname that her father gave her.

juj monster

My Work as a High School Teacher Video

R5 Pizem Interview

I teach at R-5 High School and work with high school learners who need a different style of education. It is the responsibility of the myself and the other teachers at my school to prepare our learners for life after high school be that college, career prep or straight to the workforce. Catch a glimpse at what I try to do on a daily basis.

If you want to help, be that positive role model to those teenage in your life!

 

 

Over Two Soon: Topo and Beta

I had been wanting to new route in the North Fork of the Taylor in Kolob Canyon for years. I recently noticed that the locals were establishing incredible lines on the perfect stone and knew that I blew my shot at the plums. So as it goes, I began to look for the more unique and adventurous possibilities. This spring I established Juj Monster (a route named for my best friends wife’s sister who passed away way too soon in her life) and this fall I established Over Two Soon which is ironically about death again. I don’t know if the wall has a name, but I could see it being called the Memorial Amphitheater or something like that. Anyway, I was drawn to the wall by the lure of giant huecos. As it turns out the whole wall is covered with them. I have a few more lines that I would like to establish now that the approach is dialed and relatively quick (the first time it took me 8 hours to get to the base). Now I can do it in under 2 hours.

So what should you expect on this bolted sport climb?

  1. Just cause the bolts are there it doesn’t mean that you will see them (the first pitch is obvious, don’t worry about finding the route). Sometimes the best rock was in the back of the hueco or on the bottom or side. You get the picture.
  2. The route is next to a giant waterfall. That means that sand and dirt may accumulate on the holds. I brushed with a snow scraper brush to clean things off.
  3. Loose rock. I hammered the big and obviously scary stuff off the wall, but more may fall. Pay attention when you climb the route, it is Zion after all. Helmets are a must!
  4. I left a draw on pitch 4, this is so you can clip it and lower down to reach the anchor. The pitch is overhung and you will dangle in space if you don’t clip into bolts on the pitch. Please leave it there so others can clip in.
  5. Full 35 meter rappels. Make sure you line up the rope ends exactly, otherwise you will have to adjust them just above the cave anchor belay.

The route topo is below and the route is in between the waterfall and the white spots on the far right of the image in the photo below. The route gets morning shade and plenty of wind so dress for success. Also we saw a rattle snake up near the base. Be aware.

Over Two Soon TopoDSC00626

Upcoming Slide Shows!!!

December 26 at Stone Age Climbing Gym in Albuquerque, New Mexico. This will be a good one and my first time speaking in New Mexico!!! Psyched!!

Jan 12, 2018 at Pine Needle Mountaineering in Durango, CO

Jan 17, 2018 at Grand Valley Climbing Gym in Grand Junction, CO

My goal in my presentations is to make your hands sweat, make you laugh, and finally to inspire you to plan, train and accomplish your dreams be them climbing related or not! I always have a little gear from my sponsors too. Arcteryx, SCARPA, CAMP-USA, Julbo, Sterling Rope

Rob Pizem-Zion-OTS-LoRes-1391

 

Halloween with the Boys

This is a great time of the year. The temperatures are cooler, there are many wonderful ways to celebrate life and of course, reasons to wear costumes. My boys love Halloween. They love dressing up, pumpkin carving, and they love wearing costumes. We went back to the pumpkin patch this fall to enjoy the sunshine and bouncing and sliding and the wagon rides.

I think that if I didn’t have my own kids that I would have continued skipping holidays and the joy that they bring people. I have been consumed with climbing for so long that holiday just means more time to climb. I never got into the festivities that the rest of the population thrives upon. My boys have allowed me to see what happiness holidays can bring and that fun is slowly creeping into my crusty ole brain. Thanks to my wonderful wife for teaming up with me for making and raising these incredible boys.DSC00795DSC00815DSC00791DSC00805

American Alpine Club Craggin Classic Shelf Road

I taught a clinic on Onsighting on a perfect fall day. We had really excited folks in our group who stepped up and began to try the techniques that we talked about during the clinic. After a long day of sending and at the end falling, we headed back to hear an awesome Josh Wharton slide show in the freezing cold Canon City mountains. Always a good time at the AAC events. Hope to see you in Moab this weekend!!!

These events are about bringing climbers together, climbing, sharing instruction and having a good time. The food was great, there were a ton of vendors and people got to climb themselves into the fetal position. Doesn’t that sound fun? It does to me.DSC00758DSC00753DSC00755DSC00751